“大食物观”将会为餐桌带来哪些变化

What changes will the "big food concept" bring to the table

本报记者 赵觉珵 陈子帅 本报驻德国特约记者 青 木 ●王晓晨

Our reporter Zhao Juehui Chen Zishuai Our special correspondent in Germany Aoki ● Wang Xiaochen

在刚刚发布的2023年中央一号文件中，“树立大食物观”被纳入“抓紧抓好粮食和重要农产品稳产保供”章节。据《环球时报》记者梳理，2015年，中央农村工作会议提出“树立大农业、大食物观念”。2016年，中央一号文件写入“树立大食物观”，并将其作为优化农业生产结构和区域布局的重要内容。7年时间，中国饮食消费结构发生变化，“大食物观”也与时俱进，不断发展深化。多位受访专家向《环球时报》记者表示，在当前全球粮食安全格局动荡以及中国稳定国家粮食安全战略大背景下，“大食物观”有着新的现实意义。那么，什么是“大食物观”？哪些行业受到影响？人们餐桌又将迎来哪些变化？

In the No. 1 central document of 2023, which has just been released, "establishing the concept of big food" has been included in the chapter of "paying close attention to the stable production and supply of grain and important agricultural products". According to the reporter of the Global Times, in 2015, the Central Rural Work Conference proposed to "establish the concept of big agriculture and big food". In 2016, the No. 1 central document of the Central Committee of the Communist Party of China (CPC) wrote "Establishing the Concept of Big Food" as an important part of optimizing the agricultural production structure and regional layout. Over the past seven years, China's food consumption structure has changed, and the "big food concept" has also kept pace with the times and has been developing and deepening. Several interviewed experts told the Global Times that the "big food concept" has new practical significance in the context of the current volatile global food security pattern and China's strategy of stabilizing national food security. So, what is the "big food view"? Which industries are affected? What changes will happen to people's tables?

专家解读何为“大食物观”

Experts Interpret What Is "Big Food View"

全国新农科建设中心秘书长、中国农业大学动物科学技术学院教授曹志军16日对《环球时报》记者表示，“大食物观”总体可以理解为中国居民饮食消费迎来革命性升级。

Cao Zhijun, secretary-general of the National Center for the Construction of New Agricultural Sciences and professor of the School of Animal Science and Technology of China Agricultural University, told the Global Times on the 16th that the "big food concept" can be understood as a revolutionary upgrade of Chinese residents' food consumption.

他表示，“食物”一词表明，老百姓餐桌上的“主角”已由传统水稻、小麦等粮食升级为品类更丰富的食物，包括肉蛋奶、海产品、蔬菜、菌类等，但必须要强调的是，粮食仍是基础保障。中国居民的饮食理念已经由“吃得饱”变成了“要吃好”，即“大食物观”所强调的，要向耕地草原森林海洋、向植物动物微生物要热量、要蛋白，全方位多途径开发食物资源。与此同时，“大”一词表明，中国食物产量和质量都得到极大提升，以前粮食种植以及动物养殖多是以“层”为单位的平面，而现在立体种植、“楼房养猪”等技术已经成熟，中国已经具备践行“大食物观”的现实条件。

He said that the word "food" indicates that the "protagonist" on the people's table has been upgraded from traditional rice, wheat and other foods to more diversified foods, including meat, eggs, milk, seafood, vegetables, fungi, etc., but it must be emphasized that food is still the basic guarantee. The dietary concept of Chinese residents has changed from "eating well" to "eating well", that is, the "big food concept" emphasizes that we should ask for heat and protein from cultivated land, grassland, forest and ocean, plant, animal and microorganism, and develop food resources in an all-round and multi-channel way. At the same time, the word "big" indicates that China's food production and quality have been greatly improved. In the past, grain planting and animal breeding were mostly based on the plane of "layer", but now the technology of three-dimensional planting and "building pig breeding" has matured, and China has the practical conditions to implement the "big food concept".

“‘大食物观’的一类代表性食物就是动物蛋白”，曹志军以牛奶为例向记者解释道，以前牛奶的主要消费群体是老人和小孩，现在已经拓展到各个年龄层，与此同时，牛奶还被制作成营养含量更高的奶酪、黄油，这说明中国消费者随着生活水平的提高，已经在饮食结构上偏向于用更优质的动物蛋白代替部分植物蛋白。另一个例子是，目前国内生产的玉米主要用途是做饲料，喂养动物。通过这样的方式，人们能够获取到消化率更高、对人体更健康的动物蛋白，所以“大食物观”的目标就是让中国老百姓吃得更好、更丰富、更健康。

"One of the representative foods of the 'big food view' is animal protein", Cao Zhijun explained to the reporter with milk as an example. The main consumer groups of milk in the past were the elderly and children. Now it has expanded to all ages. At the same time, milk has also been made into cheese and butter with higher nutritional content, which shows that Chinese consumers have improved their living standards, It has been preferred to replace some plant protein with higher quality animal protein in the diet structure. Another example is that the main use of corn currently produced in China is to feed and feed animals. In this way, people can get animal protein with higher digestibility and better health for the human body, so the goal of the "big food concept" is to make Chinese people eat better, richer and healthier.

曹志军表示，将“树立大食物观”纳入中央一号文件，这也释放出一个明确的信号，即今后要将“树立大食物观”变成一项系统性工程，“我们要‘跳出食物看食物’，从各个方面执行落地，包括加强耕地保护、强化现代农业科技支撑、培养农业新型人才等。”

Cao Zhijun said that the inclusion of "setting up a big food outlook" in the No. 1 central document of the Central Committee also released a clear signal that "setting up a big food outlook" should become a systematic project in the future. "We should 'jump out of food to see food' and implement it from all aspects, including strengthening the protection of cultivated land, strengthening the support of modern agricultural science and technology, and cultivating new agricultural talents."

对国家粮食安全具有重要意义

important for national food security

时隔7年，“大食物观”为何在此时再次出现在中央一号文件里？食品行业分析师陈彤对《环球时报》记者表示，选择在这一时间节点再次提出，是因为过去7年中，中国饮食消费结构发生了较大变化，同时这也是应对国内外形势变化的需要，以进一步加强国家粮食安全保障，提高食品安全水平。

After seven years, why does the "big food view" reappear in the No. 1 central document at this time? Chen Tong, an analyst in the food industry, told the Global Times that he chose to propose again at this time point because China's food consumption structure has undergone major changes in the past seven years, and this is also the need to respond to changes in the domestic and international situation, so as to further strengthen the national food security and improve the level of food safety.

一年来，俄乌冲突、欧洲能源危机等外部因素加剧了国际粮食市场不确定性。独立国际策略研究员陈佳对《环球时报》记者说：“因此，‘大食物观’不仅是为了主动应对居民新的食物需求偏好，更是站在国家粮食战略安全角度出发。”

Over the past year, the Russia-Ukraine conflict, the European energy crisis and other external factors have exacerbated the uncertainty of the international food market. Chen Jia, an independent international strategy researcher, told the Global Times: "Therefore, the 'big food view' is not only to actively respond to the new food demand preferences of residents, but also to stand from the perspective of national food strategic security."

陈佳从需求侧、供给侧向记者分析称，从需求侧看，近年来，居民食物消费结构的深刻变迁是树立“大食物观”的内生驱动力。随着新科技浪潮下全球粮食生产方式革命，全球范围内居民饮食结构发生改变，旧的主食/副食结构划分已经难以跟上时代要求。从供给侧来看，中国第一产业迈向现代农业是大势所趋。在这一过程中，现代农业发展必然要求生产规模化、经营战略和产品战略多元化，同时也要求因地制宜优化农业设施，拓展食物供应链范畴，科学合理践行“大食物观”。

Chen Jia said from the demand side and the supply side that from the demand side, the profound changes in the residents' food consumption structure in recent years are the endogenous driving force to establish the "big food concept". With the revolution of global food production mode under the new technology tide, the dietary structure of residents around the world has changed, and the old division of staple food/non-staple food structure has been difficult to keep up with the requirements of the times. From the supply side, it is the general trend for China's primary industry to move towards modern agriculture. In this process, the development of modern agriculture inevitably requires the diversification of production scale, business strategy and product strategy, and also requires the optimization of agricultural facilities according to local conditions, the expansion of the scope of food supply chain, and the scientific and reasonable implementation of the "big food concept".

“未来食物”需要协同推进

"Future Food" Needs Coordinated Promotion

“大食物观”提倡构建多元化食物供给体系，多途径开发食物来源。有专家称，要加快发展新食品制造业，重点是推动“人造肉”、微生物蛋白、生物合成食品等新型食品制造，扩大食物来源。

The "big food concept" advocates building a diversified food supply system and developing food sources in multiple ways. Some experts said that to speed up the development of new food manufacturing industry, the focus is to promote the production of "artificial meat", microbial protein, biosynthetic food and other new food, and expand food sources.

陈佳表示，全球主要粮食消费国都在积极探索新的食品制造方式。据了解，德国联邦教研部投入120万欧元支持研究，开发“人造蛋白”生产工艺。欧盟委员会于2021年曾拨款200万欧元用于“人造蛋白”研发项目。此外，据日本广播协会（NHK）网站报道，日本火腿公司前不久开发了一种使用大豆等作为原材料的“替代海鲜”。

Chen Jia said that the world's major food consumers are actively exploring new ways of food manufacturing. It is understood that the German Federal Ministry of Education and Research has invested 1.2 million euros to support research and develop the production process of "artificial protein". In 2021, the European Commission allocated 2 million euros for the "artificial protein" research and development project. In addition, according to the website of the Japan Broadcasting Association (NHK), the Japanese Ham Company recently developed a "substitute seafood" using soybeans and other raw materials.

2022年5月10日，国家发改委发布《“十四五”生物经济发展规划》，其中提出发展合成生物学技术，探索研发“人造蛋白”等新型食品，实现食品工业迭代升级。消息公布后，“人造蛋白”领域迎来利好，多家上市公司有所布局。但业内人士表示，我国“人造肉”市场仍处于发展初期。

On May 10, 2022, the National Development and Reform Commission issued the "Fourteenth Five-Year Plan" for Bioeconomic Development, which proposed to develop synthetic biological technology, explore the development of "artificial protein" and other new foods, and realize the iterative upgrading of the food industry. After the news was released, the field of "artificial protein" ushered in a favorable situation, and many listed companies made a layout. However, insiders said that China's "artificial meat" market is still in the early stage of development.

对此，曹志军向记者表示，中国已具备生产人造蛋白、生物合成蛋白的技术，但距离产业化仍然较远，在产品安全、生产效率、成本方面还需协同推进。

In response, Cao Zhijun told reporters that China has the technology to produce artificial protein and biosynthetic protein, but it is still far from industrialization, and needs to be promoted in terms of product safety, production efficiency and cost.

陈彤也表示，“大食物观”下，以“人造肉”为代表的“未来食物”要实现产业化、商品化，需要多方面的支持。一方面需要在生产技术上不断改进，提高其口感、营养、安全等方面的品质；另一方面需要加强相关政策的支持，提供科技、财税等多方面扶持，促进其产业化和商品化发展。此外，还要提升公众对新型食物的认知和接受度。▲

Chen Tong also said that under the "big food concept", "future food" represented by "artificial meat" needs support from various aspects to realize industrialization and commercialization. On the one hand, it needs to improve its production technology to improve its taste, nutrition, safety and other aspects of quality; On the other hand, it is necessary to strengthen the support of relevant policies, provide support in science and technology, finance and taxation, and promote its industrialization and commercialization. In addition, the public's awareness and acceptance of new food should also be improved.