In with the fashion crowd: fine jewellers become less precious about trends

深处时尚浪潮中：精品珠宝商向潮流低头

For a long time, “fashion” was a dirty word in luxury jewellery. Fashion jewellery was seen as cheap, made of non-precious materials, worn for a season and discarded.

在很长一段时间里，“时尚”对奢侈珠宝来说是一个肮脏的词。时尚珠宝通常被视为是廉价的，由非贵重材料制成，佩戴一个季节后便被丢弃。

Fine jewellery’s old guard would avoid anything that might be deemed too fashionable. It was feared that gold and diamonds might lose the enduring qualities that marketing strategies, such as De Beers’ “A Diamond Is Forever”, were built on. No longer.

老牌精品珠宝会避免任何可能被认为过于时尚的东西。人们担心黄金和钻石可能会失去在过往营销中塑造出来的恒久品质，如德比尔斯（De Beers）的“钻石恒久远”（A Diamond Is Forever）。如今已截然不同。

“The narrative has gone from ‘Buy this now and wear it every day for the rest of your life’ to ‘Buy this now and it will survive the trends cycle’,” says Jodie Marie Smith, an adviser to jewellery brands. Jewellers, she says, now see the benefit of engaging with younger consumers with different values.

珠宝品牌顾问朱迪·玛丽·史密斯（Jodie Marie Smith）说：“故事已经从‘现在买下，在余生中的每一天都佩戴’变成了‘现在买下，它将让你紧随潮流’”。她说，珠宝商现在看到了迎合价值观已然改变的年轻消费者的好处。

Brands, she says, are shifting from “images that are styled to high heaven and shot in Monaco, and have nothing to do with the life you even want to lead” to relatable imagery — showing luxury jewellery shot with casual outfits on models posing outside the supermarket, or on a night out.

她认为，品牌正在从“时尚的、在摩纳哥拍摄的、与你想要过的生活毫无关系的图景”，转变为与生活更加相关的图景——模特在超市外或晚上外出时，穿着休闲服装展示奢侈珠宝。

British jeweller Shaun Leane has dipped into 1990s nostalgia to create a black-and-white campaign for its Rose Thorn collection, using models in denim and monochrome cotton basics. Tiffany & Co has tried a similarly styled campaign with the slogan “Not your mother’s Tiffany”.

英国珠宝商肖恩·莱恩（Shaun Leane）深陷上世纪90年代的怀旧情绪，为其玫瑰刺系列打造了一场黑白宣传活动，使用了身着牛仔和单色棉基调的模特。蒂芙尼公司（Tiffany & Co）也尝试过类似风格的活动，打出“不属于你母亲的蒂芙尼”的标语。

Luxury jewellery houses have also been experimenting with cross-genre collaborations. Parisian jeweller Messika co-designed a collection with model Kate Moss, with a fashion show-style launch in Paris, complete with a front row populated by models and influencers. The collection is also launching in the metaverse via fashion gaming app Drest.

奢侈品珠宝店也在尝试跨型合作。巴黎珠宝商梅西卡（Mesika）与模特凯特·莫斯（Kate Moss）共同设计了一个系列，在巴黎举行了时装秀风格发布会，前排挤满了模特和有影响力的人。该系列还将通过时尚游戏应用Drest在元宇宙上发布。

At Dior, artistic director of jewellery Victoire de Castellane has been working with menswear artistic director Kim Jones on high jewellery pieces for its 2022 lines, including a men’s pearl necklace with diamond-set cactus bursting with enamel blooms. In 2020, it invited fashion videographer and YouTuber Loïc Prigent, known for his irreverent, punchy content, to film with de Castellane to mark 20 years of its fine jewellery division.

迪奥珠宝的艺术总监德卡斯特拉内（Victoire de Castellane）与男装艺术总监金·琼斯（Kim Jones）合作，为2022年的系列设计高级珠宝，设计包括一条男式珍珠项链，项链上镶满了珐琅花朵的钻石仙人掌。2020年，该公司邀请时尚摄像师和油管视频博主Loïc Prigent与德卡斯特拉恩合作拍摄，以纪念其精品珠宝部门成立20年。

Louis Vuitton similarly invited Prigent to the launch of its high jewellery collection, Stellar Times, later that year, and the resulting video felt very much like the energetic backstage reporting popular at fashion weeks.

同年晚些时候，路易威登同样邀请普里金特（Prigent）参加其高端珠宝系列Stellar Times的发布会，最终的视频仿佛时尚周上流行的那类充满活力的后台报道。

For NYC Jewelry Week’s co-founder, JB Jones, it was a moment at the Kenzo AW22 show in Paris in January that captured this new mood, when musician Pharrell arrived wearing sunglasses set with 25ct of diamonds that were the result of a collaboration with Tiffany. “It isn’t any more about the attainment of a luxury item; it’s about how people want to express themselves through jewellery,” says Jones.

对于纽约珠宝周的联合创始人JB琼斯（JB Jones）来说，1月份在巴黎举行的Kenzo AW22时装秀捕捉到了这种新风向：音乐家法雷尔（Pharrell）戴着太阳镜来到这里，太阳镜上镶着25克拉的钻石，这是与他与蒂芙尼的合作。琼斯说：“这不再是一件奢侈品的展示，而是人们如何通过珠宝来表达自己。”

This desire to experiment with fine jewellery outside of the carefully crafted narratives laid down by luxury houses is partly what led Jones and her business partner, Bella Neyman, to set up NYC Jewelry Week, in 2018. Unlike New York Fashion Week, it is a consumer event.

琼斯和她的商业伙伴贝拉·内曼（Bella Neyman）在2018年举办的纽约珠宝周，部分原因在于他们希望在奢侈品公司精心打造的故事之外尝试精美珠宝。与纽约时装周不同，它是一个消费者活动。

“We wanted to say it’s OK to wear it how you want to wear it, and we didn’t see that happening with a lot of larger brands,” says Jones — pointing out that most consumers will mix luxury jewels with more accessible or vintage pieces, just as fashion followers might pair a Zara dress with a Chanel handbag.

琼斯说：“我们想要传达，你可以想怎么穿就怎么穿，但我们很多大品牌都不会这样，”她指出，大多数消费者会将奢侈珠宝与更容易买到的或复古的饰品混搭在一起，就像时尚追随者可能会将Zara连衣裙与香奈儿手袋搭配在一起一样。

Jewellery photography is also becoming more experimental. Smith points to a rise in flash photography and imagery shot on the type of lo-fi cameras the Gen-Z crowd favour, as well as a diminishing reliance on picture-perfect shots.

珠宝摄影也变得越来越具有实验性。史密斯指出，Z世代喜欢的那种低保真相机的闪光摄影和图像拍摄逐渐变多，对完美照片的依赖也在减少。

The narrative has gone from ‘Buy this now and wear it every day for the rest of your life’ to ‘Buy this now and it will survive the trends cycle’

故事已经从“现在买下，在余生中的每一天都佩戴”变成了“现在买下，它将让你紧随潮流”。

Jodie Marie Smith, jewellery brand adviser

朱迪·玛丽·史密斯（Jodie Marie Smith），珠宝品牌顾问。

New York-based Ondyn, which produces high-end diamond jewellery, used long exposures in its latest campaign, making the jewels appear as tantalising blurs. “We wanted the imagery and aesthetic to be more about the dream and magic of wearing our jewellery,” says founder Tara Maria Famiglietti.

总部位于纽约的昂丹（Ondyn）高端钻石首饰制造商，在其最新活动中使用了长时间曝光，使这些珠宝模糊得诱人。创始人塔拉·玛丽亚·法米格利蒂（Tara Maria Famiglietti）说：“我们希望图像美学能够更多地体现佩戴珠宝的梦想和魔力。”

Shifting styles to maintain aspirational relevance with younger consumers could open up jewellers to a new customer base, believes David Kellie, chief executive of the Natural Diamond Council. “What Virgil Abloh was doing with jewellery was really exciting,” he says, referring to the late men’s fashion designer, whose Office Supplies collaboration with jeweller Jacob & Co produced gem-encrusted paper clips designed to be worn with trainers, denim and T-shirts. “We see streetwear as the next big opportunity for diamonds,” he explains.

天然钻石协会主席戴维·凯利（David Kellie）认为，通过改变风格与年轻消费者的理想拉近距离，可能会为珠宝商开辟新的客户群。“维吉尔·阿布洛（Virgil Abloh）在珠宝方面所做的一切着实令人兴奋”，这是一位已故的男性时装设计师，他的办公用品与珠宝商雅各布（Jacob&Co.）合作生产了镶嵌宝石的回形针，用于搭配运动鞋、牛仔和T恤。“我们认为街头服饰是钻石的下一个大机会”，他解释道。

Publisher Ian Thorley sees potential in luxury jewellery joining up with mainstream fashion. Last year, he launched Something About Rocks, a magazine dedicated to jewellery but presenting it through a fashion lens, with celebrity interviews, fashion shoots and a tone of voice that speaks to Gen-Z and millennial consumers.

出版商伊恩·索利（Ian Thorley）认为奢侈珠宝与主流时尚结合的潜力很大。去年，他推出了《关于岩石》（Something About Rocks）杂志，这是一本专门介绍珠宝的杂志，但它通过时尚视角呈现，内容涵盖名人访谈、时尚摄影，以及适用于Z世代和千禧一代消费者的口吻。

Fashion houses competing at the top end of the jewellery market include Hermès, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Dior. The State of Fashion 2022 report by McKinsey reports that the branded fine jewellery segment is expected to grow by 8-12 per cent between 2019 and 2025.

在珠宝市场高端竞争的时装公司包括爱马仕、古驰、路易威登、香奈儿和迪奥。麦肯锡（McKinsey）发布的《2022年时尚状况》（State of Fashion 2022）报告显示，2019年至2025年间，品牌精品珠宝细分市场预计将增长8%至12%。

“It’s the last area of luxury that there’s real growth in for brands,” says Thorley. “Every brand wants to be involved.”

索利说：“这是最后一个品牌真正增长的奢侈品领域，每个品牌都想参与。”